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Complete written investigation summary
A Colombian fashion designer built an empire from a sewing machine. Luxury retailers sold her bags. Celebrities wore them on red carpets. But when federal agents came knocking, only one person went to prison.
July 8, 2022. Colombian federal agents rang the doorbell of a luxury home in Cali at dawn. Inside, 71-year-old Nancy Gonzalez was getting ready for her day. She’d spent 25 years building her brand. She employed 300 people. Her handbags sat in Bergdorf Goodman’s Fifth Avenue windows. Britney Spears, Victoria Beckham, and Salma Hayek had all carried her bags.
The agents had arrest warrants: wildlife smuggling, conspiracy, false statements to federal officials.
Nancy Gonzalez went to prison. The retailers who sold her bags? They walked away. The celebrities who wore them? Silent. The luxury stores that put them in their windows? No consequences.
Nancy Teresa Gonzalez de Barbary was born in 1952 in Cali, Colombia. When she was nine, her father died, leaving her mother to raise five children alone. Nancy learned resilience early.
She married young, had two children, and then her husband left. In her early 30s, she was a single mother in Colombia with no clear path forward. So she found a sewing machine and started making handbags.
By the early 1990s, she’d incorporated her company. She hired artisans—mostly women, many of them heads of households like herself. She paid above-market wages, offered pension plans, helped employees send their children to college.
By the 2010s, Nancy Gonzalez was everywhere. Bergdorf Goodman gave her a dedicated section on their first floor. Saks featured her prominently. Neiman Marcus carried her in dozens of stores. Her bags appeared in The Devil Wears Prada and Sex and the City. The Metropolitan Museum of Art exhibited her work.
A Colombian single mother had built something that competed with European luxury houses—and won.
Luxury fashion using exotic animal skins is heavily regulated. Every product made from python, caiman, or crocodile must comply with CITES—the Convention on International Trade in Endangered Species. That means permits from both exporting and importing countries, physical tags proving legal sourcing, proper documentation, and inspection at designated ports.
According to court testimony, this process takes weeks. But Fashion Week deadlines don’t wait.
For years, Nancy had occasionally asked Fish and Wildlife for accommodations—letting employees carry sample bags through airports when official shipments wouldn’t arrive in time. Sometimes authorities said yes.
In February 2016, they said no. No more passenger imports. Period.
Nancy received that notification in writing. Fashion Week was two weeks away. She made a choice.
According to cooperating witness testimony, what started as occasional rush deliveries became systematic. During major collection events, Nancy recruited up to 40 passengers simultaneously—employees, friends, family members—each carrying four handbags, all converging on her Manhattan showroom.
Nancy paid for everything: round-trip tickets, hotels, and a $600 fee per courier. She told them customs wouldn’t care, that if anyone asked, they should say the bags were personal gifts.
That’s a federal crime—making false statements to customs officials.
Between February 2016 and April 2019, according to Fish and Wildlife investigators, Nancy smuggled between 788 and 1,307 handbags into the United States. Retail value: $1.4 to $2.6 million.
In September 2016, one of her couriers got caught at Newark airport. He lied to agents, claiming the bags were personal items. He was questioned extensively but not arrested. Nancy received a warning.
She kept smuggling.
Throughout 2016 and 2017, Nancy received multiple warnings from U.S. Fish and Wildlife. There were seizures. There were explicit notifications that her practices violated U.S. law. The sentencing judge would later note: “She was specifically told that what she was doing was in violation of US law.”
She continued anyway.
In March 2017, Nancy’s son Santiago died by suicide. He was 40 years old—the co-founder and creative director of the Nancy Gonzalez label, the person who’d worked alongside his mother for years.
According to defense filings, Nancy was shattered. She described an unexplainable pain that made it hard to breathe, a constant feeling of emptiness, a sense that part of her died the day her son took his own life.
The prosecution noted that Santiago died more than a year after the smuggling began, and Nancy had already been warned multiple times. His death, tragic as it was, didn’t excuse continued criminal conduct.
Both things can be true: grief genuinely impairs judgment, and the law Nancy broke was real regardless.
By April 2019, federal prosecutors had enough. Cooperating witnesses had told them everything. Nancy’s Manhattan showroom manager estimated approximately a thousand bags had been smuggled through the operation.
In July 2022, Colombian authorities arrested Nancy at her home. She was held at Buen Pastor prison in Bogota—maximum security—for 14 months while fighting extradition.
The U.S. government pushed back hard. She had violated U.S. law, smuggled goods into U.S. territory, made false statements to U.S. federal officers. She would face trial in the United States.
Colombia agreed. Nancy was extradited to Miami in August 2023.
Nancy did something that surprised court observers: she pleaded guilty with no deal, no promises about sentencing, no guarantees.
She admitted to conspiracy to smuggle goods into the United States and making false statements to federal officers. She admitted she’d recruited couriers. She admitted she’d ignored warnings. She admitted she’d lied to federal agents.
According to her attorneys, Nancy genuinely felt remorse. She was 71 years old. She didn’t want to drag her employees through testimony. She wanted to accept her punishment.
According to prosecutors, she pleaded guilty because the evidence was overwhelming. Both explanations might be true.
Nancy Gonzalez was sentenced to 18 months in federal prison. Her company went bankrupt. 300 Colombian women lost their jobs. Her life’s work—gone.
But the court records show no charges filed against the luxury retailers who purchased those bags. No investigation of the celebrities who wore them. No accountability for the buyers who put them in Fifth Avenue windows.
The prosecutor, when shown a promotional video of retailers praising Nancy, said those retailers “must be regretting they were ever put up to that and have their own brands to protect.”
Their own brands to protect.
On online forums, collectors debated the case fiercely. One camp said she got what she deserved—she knew what she was doing, she was warned repeatedly, actions have consequences. The other camp asked a different question: Why prosecute the Colombian woman, but not the American corporations? Bergdorf Goodman sold those bags. Saks sold those bags. Where are their charges?
Both camps have a point. Both questions are fair. And that’s what makes this case so difficult.
According to resale market records, Nancy Gonzalez handbags continue to sell on luxury consignment platforms. In February 2025, ten months after her sentencing, The RealReal published an article titled “Top 5 Nancy Gonzalez Handbags”—no mention of the criminal case, no ethical disclaimer.
The bags still have value. The brand wasn’t toxic. Collectors weren’t boycotting.
Nancy Gonzalez built something remarkable from nothing. She broke the law systematically after being warned. She accepted responsibility completely. She went to prison while retailers walked away.
Was justice served? Or did we watch the criminal justice system do what it always does—punish the convenient while protecting the powerful?
This is Part One. Part Two covers the sentencing hearing, Nancy’s own words to the judge, and the final reckoning.
All facts in this episode come from federal court documents, arrest records, witness testimony, and official filings. Case files are available for download at truecrimeunheard.com.
Verifiable case records used in this investigation
Judgment in a Criminal Case - United States v. Nancy Teresa Gonzalez de Barberi
Defendant Nancy Teresa Gonzalez De Barberi's Sentencing Memorandum and Objections to the Presentence Investigation Report
Indictment - Conspiracy to Smuggle Goods and Smuggling Goods into the United States
[0:03] Picture this. It's July 8th, 2022. [0:07] A luxury home in Cali, Columbia. You know, the kind of place you see an architectural digest. Floor-to-ceiling windows, custom furniture, art on every wall. The Colombian federal agents ring the doorbell at dawn. [0:25] Inside, according to what would later be documented in court records, a 71-year-old fashion designer is getting ready for her day. 25 years building a brand. 300 employees. Handbags in Bergdorf Goodman's Fifth Avenue windows. Britney Spears, Victoria Beckham, Salma Hayek. They're all carrying her bags. The agents have arrest warrants. Wildlife smuggling, conspiracy, false statements to federal officials. The fashion designer's name is Nancy Gonzalez. You've probably never heard of her, but here's what makes this story different from every other true crime case about a wealthy person breaking the law. Nancy Gonzalez went to prison. The retailers who sold her bags? They walked away. The celebrities who wore them? Silent. The luxury stores that put them in their windows? No consequences. [1:34] So let me ask you a question that's going to follow us through this entire story. Who faces consequences when the wealthy break the law? And who get to walk away because they have a brand to protect? I'm Steve Rode. I spent two years as a police dispatcher taking emergency calls. I also worked surveillance photography with local law enforcement, and later in my career, I was chief pilot for public safety operations, flying missions for police, fire, and state departments. Throughout this two-part series, you'll hear from Dr. Patricia Wells, who I love. I want to be completely transparent with you. [2:22] Dr. Patricia Wells is a fictional character that we created for this podcast. She's not a real person, however. Her insights are drawn from established criminological research, academic literature, and consultation with actual subject matter experts. I mean, think of her as a composite expert. A way for us to explore the academic and psychological context behind these cases in a conversational format. She's a friend of the podcast and her analysis helps us understand the deeper questions these stories raise. Before we dive into Nancy's story, I want to mention something. This isn't your typical true crime podcast where you just listen and just walk away. Here, you can participate. You can be a part of the investigation. At the end of today's episode, I'm going to invite you to help research the luxury fashion supply chain. And who's accountable when rules get broken? You could become part of the story, so stick around to the end. [3:37] Today's case is unlike anything we've covered before. It's not about murder. It's not about crypto. It's not about scams. No, there's no body, no blood, no weapon. But it is about justice and whether justice means the same thing for everyone. According to federal court documents, Nancy Gonzalez ran a wildlife smuggling operation for over three years. She recruited couriers, regular people, employees, friends, to smuggle handbags made from protected reptile skins into the United States without proper documentation. U.S. Fish and Wildlife Service records show that she was warned repeatedly. In 2016 and 2017, she continued anyway. The bags were sold at Bergdorf Goodman, Saks, 5th Avenue, Neiman Marcus, Harrods. Retail value? Well, according to the indictment, between 1.4 and 2.6 million dollars. [4:49] Nancy Gonzalez was arrested, she was extradited, she was prosecuted, and she was sentenced to 18 months in federal prison. Her company went bankrupt. 300 Colombian women lost their jobs. Her life's work gone. But here's what court records don't show you finding. Any charges filed against the luxury retailers who purchased those bags, any investigation of the celebrities who wore them, any accountability for the buyers who put them in Fifth Avenue windows. The prosecutor would later say, when shown a video of retailers praising Nancy Gonzalez, that those retailers must be regretting they were ever put up to that and have their own brands to protect. Yeah, you heard that right, their own brands to protect. [5:52] This is a story about fashion and wildlife. But it's really a story about who faces consequences and who doesn't. About immigrant success stories and whether we destroy them differently than we treat old money fashion houses. It's about what happens when you're brown-skinned, Colombian, and breaking the same rules That European luxury brands break with a slap on the wrist. [6:29] Was Nancy Gonzalez a criminal who deserved what she got, or was she a scapegoat targeted because she was convenient while the powerful escaped accountability? Now, that's the question we're going to explore together. And I don't think the answer is simple by any means. And it's what got me really thinking about this. And I want you to think about it, too. So, this episode is part one of two, because we're going to see how this empire was built, and how the very same people who helped build it, walked away when it collapsed. [7:14] Let's start with something that tells you this story is more complicated than a criminal gets caught. But according to archived forum posts from Purse Forum, the largest online community of handbag collectors, yeah, that's a thing, people had a very strong opinion about Nancy Gonzalez's case. But those opinions didn't line up at all. Camp One thought she got what she deserved. One user wrote, according to forum archives, always wondered why her exotic leather bags were more reasonably priced than other designers. Apparently, her business model included smuggling to keep expenses low. Another posted, That seems pretty clear-cut to me. She broke the law repeatedly after being warned. Actions have consequences. These weren't prosecutors writing these posts. These were regular people saying she knew what she was doing. She chose profit over following the rules. She got caught. And that's how justice worked. [8:27] But Camp 2 saw something completely different. According to the same forum threads, other users were furious. But not at Nancy. At the system. One user wrote, I can't understand why an established designer would pay people to smuggle bags four at a time via plane. Doesn't make a lick of sense for the well-established designer. Another got more pointed. Why did this designer go to prison while retailers walked free? Bergdorf Goodman sold those bags. Sachs sold those bags. Where are their charges? And this one according to the archives. Cut to the heart of it. Why prosecute the Colombian woman, but not the American corporations? This is selective prosecution. She was a convenient target. Two camps, both convinced they're right, both asking completely different questions. Camp one asks, why did she think she could get away with breaking federal law? Camp two asks, why is she the only one who didn't get away with it? [9:49] And here's what makes this case so difficult. Both questions are fair. Both camps have a point. Both perspectives contain truth. [10:01] And according to court documents, Nancy Gonzalez absolutely broke the law. Systematically. Over years. After warnings. And that's not disputed. But it's complicated. According to those same court documents and media reports, the luxury retailers who purchased and sold those smuggled bags, they faced no investigation. The celebrities who wore them and appeared in promotional materials, no questions asked. The 40 or more couriers per season who actually smuggled the bags through customs, no charges filed. Only Nancy Gonzalez A Colombian, immigrant, self-made Lacking institutional protection Went to prison, Now one forum user noticed something else According to the thread. [11:02] Though at the time Nancy Gonzalez is not at the top of her favor Of popularity in the fashion scene This isn't being covered as widely as I imagined it would be good point a fashion designer goes to federal prison for wildlife smuggling major luxury retailers are implicated celebrity endorsements everywhere and the story barely makes a ripple in mainstream media why? [11:33] And here's something even stranger. According to the resale market records, Nancy Gonzalez handbags continue to sell on the RealReal, Fashionphile, and other platforms throughout her prosecution and after her conviction. In February 2025, 10 months after her sentencing, the RealReal blog published an article titled, Top 5 Nancy Gonzalez Handbags. There's no mention of the criminal case, no. ethical disclaimer, just, hey, these bags are for sale. The bags still have value. The brand wasn't toxic. Collectors weren't boycotting. The question is, why? What happened? To understand that, you have to know who Nancy Gonzalez was before any of this happened, before the arrests, before the headlines, when she was just a single mother in Columbia with a dream. [12:31] To understand how this all fell apart, we need to understand how it started. Nancy Teresa Gonzalez de Barbary was born in 1952 in Cali, Colombia. According to character reference letters filed with the court, her childhood was marked by tragedy early. When Nancy was nine years old, her father died, leaving her mother alone to raise five children. Columbia in the 1960s and 70s was not, not an easy place to be a single mother. According to court documents, Nancy's mother took on both roles, mom and dad, without complaint. She maintained what Nancy described as an open-door policy, where family and friends were always welcome. She made sure her children felt loved and supported through life's obstacles. [13:29] That resilience, that refusal to give up when things got hard, is something Nancy learned early, and it would define everything that came after. According to defense filings, Nancy married young and had two children, Santiago and Christina. But the marriage didn't last. According to court records, her husband divorced her, leaving Nancy alone with two small children and no clear path forward. She was in her early 30s, a single mother in Columbia in a country still dealing with FARC, narco-terrorists, and widespread poverty particularly among women. So Nancy did what her mother taught her to do. She didn't give up. She found a sewing machine and she started making handbags. According to court documents, this was the late 1980s, and Nancy worked from her house, just her and that sewing machine. She taught herself design. She learned about exotic skins, python, caiman, crocodile, and she discovered that she had an eye for textures and for color, and for what made a handbag special and desirable. She was a man. [14:52] And slowly, bag by bag, customer by customer, she built something incredible. By the early 1990s, according to business records, Nancy had incorporated her company, D&M International. She hired artisans, mostly women. Many were heads of households just like her. According to character references, she paid above-market wages, offered pension plans, helped employees send their children to college. But here's what made Nancy different from just another small manufacturer. She understood that Colombian luxury could compete with European brands, that handbags made in Cali could sit on shelves next to Hermes and Gucci, that the world didn't have to see Colombian fashion as second tier, and she was going to prove it. According to fashion industry reports, by the late 1990s, Nancy's designs were getting noticed. The handbags were beautiful, exotic python and caiman skins in rich colors, expert craftsmanship like you would not believe, and distinctive style. But they were also affordable compared to European luxury bags. A Nancy Gonzalez bag might retail for $2,000 to $4,000. A comparable Hermes bag, $8,000 to $15,000. [16:21] She found her market. Women who wanted luxury but couldn't or wouldn't pay Hermes prices. But to truly compete with the European brands, she needed something they all had, a presence in America. [16:40] According to court records, Nancy needed American distribution. The real money, the real prestige, came from placing bags in Manhattan department stores, in Bergdorf Goodman, in Saks Fifth Avenue, in Neiman Marcus. And that's where you became a legitimate luxury brand. So, according to business filings, in 2007, Nancy established Zuniga Limited, a New York-based subsidiary company. And she opened a showroom at 5 East 57th Street in Manhattan. Prime real estate, walking distance from Bergdorf's. And she hired Eric Schneider, an American citizen, to manage the showroom and handle relationships with U.S. retailers. [17:31] It worked! According to court documents, by the 2010s, Nancy Gonzalez was everywhere. Bergdorf Goodman gave her a dedicated section on the first floor of their Fifth Avenue flagship. Sacks featured her bags prominently. Neiman Marcus? Well, they carried her in dozens of stores. Harrods in London stocked her line. And according to sales records, she was distributed in over 300 luxury retailers worldwide. The bags appeared on red carpets. According to media reports, Britney Spears carried one. So did Victoria Beckham, Salma Hayek, Eva Longoria. The brand got name-dropped in The Devil Wears Prada. Stanley Tucci's character specifically mentions Nancy Gonzalez' bags. They appeared in Sex and the City, too. According to court filings, at her peak, Nancy employed over 300 people in Colombia. 95% were women. Most were heads of households. [18:43] The Metropolitan Museum of Art exhibited her work in 2008. Fashion Week in New York City, February and September, like clockwork. She was there. Buyers loved her. Retailers promoted her. She was living proof that a single mother from Cali, Columbia, could build something that mattered, that competed, that won. [19:11] But there was a problem. A problem that would eventually destroy everything. [19:21] Here's the thing about luxury fashion that most people don't understand. It's heavily regulated, especially when you're using exotic animal skins. According to federal law, any product made from reptile skins, python, caiman, crocodile, must comply with CITES, sites. That's the Convention on International Trade in Endangered Species. [19:50] Let me break that down on what that actually means according to the U.S. Fish and Wildlife Service regulations. First, the skins must come from legal sources, either wild-caught with proper permits or farm-raised with documentation proving the animals were bred in captivity. Second, every shipment must have sites permits from both the exporting country and the importing country. That's paperwork, time-consuming, lots of it, from Colombia and from the United States. Third, every individual item must have a site's tag attached, a physical tag that proves this specific bag came from a legal source. Fourth, the shipment must be properly packaged with invoices and commercial documentation, and it must arrive at a designated port where U.S. Fish and Wildlife Service inspectors can examine it. [20:56] Well, according to court testimony from fish and wildlife officials, this process takes time, takes weeks, sometimes more. You can't just fly bags into New York whenever you feel like it. You have to coordinate with Colombian authorities. You have to try to coordinate with U.S. Authorities You have to plan ahead, way ahead And if you're a fashion designer trying to meet Fashion Week deadlines Well, that's a problem, according to court records for years nancy had been importing sample bags the right way, mostly she'd send commercial shipments through proper channels with all the documentation, but occasionally when she needed samples fast and i mean real fast to meet obligations, like when fashion week was breaking and approaching and the official shipment wouldn't arrive in time, She'd ask Fish and Wildlife for an accommodation. She'd say, I have an employee flying to New York. Can they carry four sample bags in their luggage? We'll have all the permits and tags. You can inspect them at the airport. [22:19] And according to testimony, fish and wildlife would sometimes say, yeah, no problem. It was an informal accommodation, not a standard procedure, but it was occasionally allowed. But in February 2016, according to official records, the U.S. Fish and Wildlife Service withdrew that accommodation. No more passenger imports. Period. The reason? According to court testimony, it was all about staffing. Fish and Wildlife didn't have inspectors available at odd hours to meet passengers at various airports. If Nancy wanted to import bags, she had to do it through official commercial channels, with advance notice with proper documentation, through designated ports, checking all the right boxes. Well Nancy received this notification according to court records she got it in writing it was clear and it was unambiguous, but fashion week wasn't two weeks and Nancy made a choice, one that would set a pattern a pattern that would repeat for years until 2016, when federal agents showed up at her door with a very clear message. [23:44] According to court documents february 2016 is when the smuggling began, nancy knew she couldn't import bags legally through passengers anymore she knew the rules had changed but fashion week waited for no one so according to testimony from cooperating witnesses, She did it anyway. Without the site's tags, without the permits, without the proper packaging, just... Employee flies to New York, carries four bags and personal luggage, delivers them to the Manhattan showroom. And if customs asks? According to witness statements, Nancy instructed them to say the bags were personal items or gifts for relatives. Well, the only problem with that is that's a federal crime Making false statements to custom officials 18 U.S.C. Section 1001. [24:50] According to court records, in September 2016, six months later, one of the couriers got caught. Diego Iroldo flew from Columbia to Newark Liberty International Airport carrying four Cayman skin handbags. I mean, sure, they were beautiful. But a U.S. Fish and Wildlife Service special agent stopped him, asked about the bags. According to the agent's report, he lied. He said they were personal items to be gifted to a friend. The agent wasn't convinced. According to testimony, Geraldo was questioned extensively, and the handbags were closely examined. But without proof of systemic smuggling, no arrest was made. According to the court record, he was allowed to continue, and he delivered the bags to the Manhattan showroom. Nancy received a warning. So did Corraldo. According to Fish and Wildlife Service records, they knew authorities were suspicious. They knew they'd been caught, or nearly caught. [26:12] They kept smuggling According to court documents throughout 2016 and 2017 Nancy received multiple warnings from U.S. Fish and Wildlife Service officials There were seizures There were explicit notifications that her import practices violated U.S. Law And the sentencing judge would later say According to court transcripts She was specifically told that what she was doing was in violation of US law. [26:45] But Fashion Week deadlines kept coming, and Nancy kept recruiting couriers. While federal agents were building a case in the background, Nancy's brand was everywhere in the foreground. On red carpets, in fashion magazines, on the arms of some of the biggest celebrities in the world. While Nancy was smuggling bags, she was also building her brand in the most visible way. Celebrities. According to media reports and social media archives, the list of celebrities photographed with Nancy Gonzalez bags reads like a Hollywood roll call. Britney Spears, Victoria Beckham, Salma Hayek, Eva Longoria, Reese Witherspoon, Sofia Vergara. These weren't product placements. According to fashion industry observers, celebrities genuinely loved the bags. The python skin had gorgeous texture, the colors were rich, and the craftsmanship was excellent. [27:49] And the price? While still luxury, was accessible compared to Hermes. According to court records, Nancy cultivated these relationships. She'd send bags to stylists. She'd work with publicists to get them on red carpets. And when a celebrity was photographed carrying a Nancy Gonzales bag, according to sales records, retailers would immediately place new orders. This is how fashion works. Celebrity visibility drives retail demand. Retail demand drives production. And production drives revenue. And revenue funds the next collection. According to promotional materials filed as evidence, luxury retailers loved Nancy. In a 2019 video, top buyers from Bergdorf Goodman and Saks Fifth Avenue praised her creativity, productivity, and humanity. They called her a joy to work with, and they said her bags flew off the shelves. [29:04] Nobody asked where the bags came from. According to testimony, retailers assumed samples that Nancy showed in her Manhattan showroom came through legal channels. They were purchasing from an established brand with a Manhattan showroom in 25 years of history. Why would they question it? [29:27] But here's the question that would later haunt everyone. Retailers have compliance departments. They have lawyers. They have due diligence processes. And according to federal import regulations, anyone purchasing wildlife products has a legal duty to ensure those products entered the country legally. Did Bergdorf Goodman verify sites documentation? Did Sachs ask for proof of legal import? Did Neiman Marcus conduct due diligence on the samples they were shown? Well, there's no evidence in the court record that they did. But there's also no evidence they were ever asked. Maybe that's because nobody wanted to know the answer. because knowing the scale of what Nancy was actually doing would have made everyone very uncomfortable. [30:28] According to testimony from cooperating witness Paola Soto, the smuggling operation grew massively. What started as an occasional rush delivery became systematic. Paola worked for Nancy's Colombian company. According to her testimony, Nancy recruited her to help coordinate couriers. Paola would recruit other employees, friends, family members. And according to court records, she reported that during major collection events, fashion week, resort week, Nancy would recruit up to 40 passengers simultaneously. I mean, think about that for a second. According to witness testimony, 40 people flying from Columbia to various U.S. Airports, each carrying four handbags, all arriving within days of each other, and all converging on the Manhattan showroom at 5 East 57th Street. [31:34] According to court documents, Nancy paid for everything. Round-trip airline tickets from Columbia to New York or Miami. Hotel accommodations and, according to testimony, a $600 maintenance fee per courier trip. The couriers weren't sophisticated criminals. According to court records, they were just regular people. CDMI employees, friends of employees, family members People who trusted Nancy and thought they were just helping her out Nancy told them, according to testimony, that You know, this is all fine. Don't worry about it That it was just samples That Customs wouldn't, doesn't care And if Customs asked, just say the bags are personal gifts, According to Fish and Wildlife Service investigators They estimated that between February 2016 and April 2019, three years, Nancy smuggled between 788 and 1307 handbags. The retail value, according to court calculations, between $1.4 and $2.6 million. [32:51] That's not samples. That's an operation. And in the middle of all of that, in the middle of the smuggling, the warnings, the escalating operation, Nancy's life was about to be hit by a tragedy that would change everything. [33:14] In March 2017, according to court documents, something terrible happened, and it shattered Nancy's world. Her son Santiago died by suicide. He was 40 years old. Santiago Barberi Gonzalez wasn't just Nancy's son. According to character reference letters, he was more than that. He was the co-founder and creative director of the Nancy Gonzalez label. He'd worked alongside his mother for years. He'd helped modernize the brand, and according to those who knew him, Santiago brought a new energy and new ideas and new connections to the fashion industry. And according to the defense's sentencing memorandum, Santiago had struggled with depression. The work of the company, the beautiful relationships he'd forged in the fashion industry had given him purpose and filled him with joy. But it wasn't enough to overcome the darkness he faced. [34:23] According to court filings, Nancy was shattered by her son's death. The pain was unbearable, and according to character references, not a single day passed without her experiencing what she described as an unexplainable pain in her heart that makes it hard to breathe. She carried with her, according to her own later statement, A constant feeling of emptiness A feeling that a part of her died The day her son took his own life. [35:07] The question the court would later wrestle with Did Santiago's death contribute to Nancy's continued violations? Well, according to the defense, after Santiago died, Nancy lost track of things. The business became the only piece of her son she had left. She held on tight. She wanted to preserve his legacy, and in her grief, according to this argument, compliance failures happened. According to the prosecution, Santiago died in March 2017 More than a year after the smuggling began And Nancy had already been warned multiple times by then His death, tragic as it was, Didn't excuse continued criminal conduct, But both things, according to the facts, might be true Grief doesn't erase responsibility, but it does provide some context for why someone might make decisions they otherwise wouldn't make. [36:23] So I turn to our friend, Dr. Wells. Hey, Dr. Wells, thank you so much for taking the time again. You know, I'm really struggling with this part. Santiago's death was devastating, there's no doubt about that. [36:39] But the prosecution has a point. I mean, Nancy had already been warned before he died. So when does grief become an explanation versus an excuse for continuing that kind of criminal behavior? [36:53] That's the question criminal courts struggle with constantly, Steve. Acute grief genuinely impairs executive function. The part of your brain that evaluates risk, considers consequences, makes rational decisions. When Nancy's son died, especially by suicide, that wasn't just sadness. That was trauma that literally changes how your prefrontal cortex processes information. So, I think what you're saying is that her brain literally wasn't working the same way after Santiago died. Is that right? Exactly. Nancy clung to the business because it was Santiago's legacy. [37:33] That's textbook grief behavior, holding tight to what connects you to the person you lost, but holding tight meant continuing to break the law. But that doesn't make the crime okay, right? Am I hearing this wrong? I mean, the prosecution kept saying she'd been warned multiple times. That's the distinction courts make. Grief can explain why someone's judgment was impaired, but it doesn't justify the harm caused. Nancy's pain was real. The law she broke was also real. Both things can be true. And that's what makes accountability in the context of trauma so agonizing. because punishing someone doesn't erase their grief [38:13] and acknowledging their grief doesn't erase their crime. All right, well, that does make sense. Thank you, Doc. [38:24] While Nancy was navigating grief, federal agents were navigating something else. The final stages of a three-year investigation that was about to come to a head. [38:36] According to court documents, by April 2019, U.S. authorities, they'd seen enough. Fish and Wildlife Service agents had been building a case for three years. They had witness interviews. They had travel records. They had seized handbags. They had documentation showing systematic violations. And they had a cooperating witness, or maybe more than one. According to court records, Eric Schneider, the American general manager of Nancy's Manhattan showroom, agreed to cooperate. He told investigators everything, how the bags arrived, how many, how often. and according to his testimony, he estimated approximately a thousand bags had been smuggled through the operation. And then Paolo Soto flipped. According to court filings, she provided detailed testimony about the courier network, how many people were recruited, how they were instructed to lie to customs, and how Nancy coordinated everything. [39:44] According to court documents, by 2019, federal prosecutors in the Southern District of Florida had had enough, enough evidence for an indictment. But there was a problem. You see, Nancy lived in Columbia. She was a Colombian citizen. She'd never set foot in a U.S. federal court. [40:09] According to extradition records, in April 2019, prosecutors requested an arrest warrant. Colombian authorities were happy to comply. They agreed to detain her pending extradition proceedings. But Nancy wasn't arrested yet. According to court records, she continued operating her business through 2019, 2020, and into 2021. And then the pandemic hit. According to business records, COVID-19 devastated the luxury fashion industry. Fashion week went virtual. Retailers closed. Orders dried up. And according to court filings, Nancy's company struggled. She laid off employees. She cut production. She fought to keep her business alive. And according to U.S. prosecutors, she kept smuggling. even during the pandemic, even with everything collapsing around her. The indictment would later allege violations through at least 2019, with some evidence suggesting continued violations into 2020. The investigation had taken three long years, but the arrest would take three minutes. [41:33] It's July 8, 2022, Friday morning, in Cali, Columbia. According to arrest records, Colombian federal agents arrived at Nancy's home at dawn. They had an arrest warrant, wildlife smuggling, conspiracy, false statements to federal officials. Nancy opened the door, and according to court documents, she was 71 years old. Her son had been dead for five years. Her company was struggling. Her employees depended on her. The agents placed her under arrest. [42:11] According to media reports from Colombia, Nancy was taken to the Buen Pastor prison. It's a woman's prison in Bogota. Maximum security. According to her later testimony, the facility housed hardened and dangerous criminals. Nancy Gonzalez, fashion designer, employer of 300 women, single mother who built an empire from a sewing machine, was now a federal prisoner in Columbia. Back in the United States, according to court records, luxury retailers scrambled. Bergdorf Goodman, no comment. Saks Fifth Avenue? No comment. Neiman Marcus? Nope, no comment. According to the prosecutor's later statement, those retailers must be regretting they ever put up that promotional video. They had their own brands to protect. They protected their brands just like the prosecutor would later say. [43:21] According to legal filings, while Nancy was in Colombian prison, her attorneys were fighting the extradition, arguing that she should face trial in Colombia, that she was too old for U.S. Federal prison, that she had health issues, that the charges should be resolved administratively. But the U.S. government, according to court documents, pushed back hard. Nancy Gonzalez had violated U.S. law, smuggled goods into U.S. Territory, made false statements to U.S. Federal officers, and she would face trial in the United States. [44:05] Colombia agreed. According to extradition records, the evidence was clear. The treaty was binding, and Nancy would be extradited. According to court filings, by August 2023, 14 months after her arrest, Columbia approved the extradition and Nancy was transferred to U.S. custody. Federal marshals flew her to Miami, and according to transport records, she appeared before Judge Robert Scola Jr. In the Southern District of Florida. According to court transcripts Nancy's attorneys immediately began negotiating Could they resolve this without a trial? Could they get a deal? The government, according to prosecutors Was willing to talk But they wanted certain things They wanted a guilty plea They wanted cooperation And they wanted acknowledgement of the harm caused. [45:13] And here's where Nancy did something that surprised a lot of people, according to the court observers. She pleaded guilty. No deal. No promises about sentencing. No guarantees. According to the plea agreement, Nancy admitted to conspiracy to smuggle goods into the United States and making false statements to federal officers. She admitted she'd recruited couriers. She admitted she'd ignored warnings, and she admitted she'd lied to federal agents. Nancy accepted responsibility, completely, without reservation. [45:56] Why would she do that? Why plead guilty with no real deal? Well, according to her attorneys, later arguments, Nancy genuinely felt remorse. She was 71 years old, facing the end of her life. She didn't want to go to trial. She didn't want to drag her employees through testimony. She wanted to accept her punishment and move forward. According to prosecutors, she pleaded guilty because the evidence was overwhelming. She had no defense. A trial would have been a disaster. Pleading guilty was her best option. [46:39] Both things, according to court records, might actually be true. You see, according to court documents, Nancy was released on bond after her plea, GPS monitoring confined to her daughter's home in Miami, and awaiting sentencing. The sentencing guidelines, according to federal calculations, recommended 30 to 37 months in federal prison. Nancy had already served 14 months in Columbia. Would the judge give her credit for that time? Would he sentence her to time served? Would he impose the full guideline range? April 2024, the sentencing hearing approaches. According to court transcripts, Prosecutor Watts Fitzgerald will argue that Nancy deserves significant prison time. That her crime was egregious, that she turned her mission into producing felons by recruiting couriers, and that she's like a cocaine kingpin. His actual comparison, well, that was because she exploited vulnerable people for profit. [47:55] Nancy's defense team will argue the opposite, according to their sentencing memo, that she's been treated most unfairly, that other designers do the same thing with administrative penalties, that she's been made an example of because she's Colombian, or because she lacks institutional protection, or because prosecutors need a headline. Judge Scola will have to sort through it all The law, the facts The question of whether justice means treating everyone the same Or whether it means some people pay prices While others never face those consequences, In that courtroom, according to people who were there Nancy Gonzalez will do something unexpected Something that shows you who she is beneath the defendant label. She'll speak directly to the judge. No prepared statement read by her attorney. Her words and her voice. And what she says will make you question everything you think you know about this case. [49:08] Because here's the thing about justice. It's not just about what someone did. It's about who decides what happens next, and whether that decision would be the same for everyone, or only for people who don't have brands to protect. We're going to walk into that courtroom together. We're going to hear exactly what Nancy said, what the prosecutor argued, and what the judge decided. And we're going to ask the question that haunts this entire case. Was justice served? Or did we just watch the criminal justice system do what it always does, punish the convenient while protecting the powerful? [50:01] That's next time on True Crime Cases You Haven't Heard, Part 2, The Reckoning. Before Part 2 drops, I have a research opportunity for you. We've talked about how Nancy Gonzalez smuggled handbags into the United States, how luxury retailers sold those bags, how the prosecution focused on Nancy while retailers faced no consequences. But here's what I want to know. Is this pattern unique to Nancy's case? Or is this how luxury fashion works? So here's your research assignment. Pick one luxury brand you're familiar with. Any brand. Any brand that sells exotic leather goods. could be Gucci, Louis Vuitton, Prada, anyone, and research their exotic leather sourcing policies. Look for, first, do they publicly disclose where their python, crocodile, or caiman skins come from? What farms? What countries? Second, have they ever been cited for sites violations or wildlife trafficking concerns? [51:18] You can search news archives, legal databases, or environmental watchdog reports. Third, if they've been caught with violations, what happened? Fines? Criminal charges? Or did it quietly disappear? Alright, this is important. Stick to public records and published sources only. Don't contact anyone involved in cases or invade anyone's privacy. We don't need that. We're researching systems and patterns, not individuals. When you're done, go to truecrimeunheard.com and click the Submit Research button. Fill out the form, tell me which brand you researched, what you found, and whether you were surprised by the level of transparency or lack of it. I'll compile your findings and share them in part two, or in a follow-up episode. You could become a part of this investigation. Until then, I invite you to share your thoughts. I mean, what do you think about this case so far? Is Nancy Gonzalez the villain who got caught? Or is she a victim of selective prosecution or somehow balky? [52:36] Visit truecrimeunheard.com for case files and transcripts and more. And while you're there, sign up for email notifications so you know when Part 2 drops. I also send out weekly cold case update emails. Cases that need attention, new developments, and stories worth following. Just sign up for the email notification at truecrimeunheard.com. You can also find true crime cases you haven't heard on Apple Podcasts, Spotify, YouTube, and everywhere you listen. If this case made you think, please like, subscribe, or follow on whatever platform you're listening on. And do me a solid. Leave a five-star review if you can. Share it with someone who needs to hear this story. You know, these lesser-known cases deserve attention. You can follow on social media for updates, case files, or more discussions about cases. [53:34] But I'm Steve Rode, and I want to thank you for listening. Until next time, I want three things for you. I want you to stay curious. I want you to stay safe. And I want you to stay subscribed.
Nancy Teresa Gonzalez de Barberi was a 71-year-old Colombian fashion designer who built a luxury handbag empire from humble beginnings. After divorcing her husband and being left alone with two small children, she started making handbags from a sewing machine in her home in Cali, Colombia. Over 25 years, she built her brand into an internationally recognized luxury label sold at Bergdorf Goodman, Saks Fifth Avenue, Neiman Marcus, and Harrods. Her exotic python and caiman skin handbags retailed for $2,000 to $6,000 and were carried by celebrities including Britney Spears, Victoria Beckham, Salma Hayek, and Eva Longoria. At her peak, she employed over 300 artisans in Colombia, 95% of whom were women.
Nancy Gonzalez pleaded guilty to one count of conspiracy to commit offenses against the United States (18 U.S.C. Section 371) and two counts of smuggling goods into the United States (18 U.S.C. Section 545). On April 22, 2024, Judge Robert N. Scola, Jr. sentenced her to 18 months imprisonment on each count, to be served concurrently. She received credit for time served from July 7, 2022 to August 30, 2023 (approximately 14 months in Colombian detention), meaning she served approximately four additional months in U.S. federal custody. She also received three years of supervised release and was banned from commercial wildlife trade for three years.
Nancy Gonzalez was arrested on July 7, 2022, at her home in Cali, Colombia, in a coordinated operation between Colombian federal authorities and the U.S. Fish and Wildlife Service. She was then detained at Buen Pastor women's prison in Cali, described as a maximum-security facility housing hardened and dangerous criminals. She spent approximately 14 months in this Colombian prison awaiting extradition, which was approved by the Colombian Supreme Court and President Gustavo Petro. On August 30, 2023, she was extradited to the United States and later released on bond to her daughter's home in Miami under GPS monitoring.
Between February 2016 and April 2019, Nancy Gonzalez orchestrated a smuggling operation to import exotic-skin handbags without required CITES permits. She recruited employees, friends, relatives, and family members as couriers, with up to 40 couriers per fashion season carrying approximately four handbags each in personal luggage on commercial flights from Colombia to New York or Miami. Couriers were instructed to tell customs agents the bags were personal items or gifts for relatives if questioned. Gonzalez paid for their round-trip airline tickets, hotel accommodations, and a $600 maintenance fee per trip. According to federal estimates, between 788 and 1,307 handbags were smuggled over the three-year period, with a retail value estimated between $1.4 million and $2.6 million.
The primary driver was Fashion Week deadlines. In early 2016, the U.S. Fish and Wildlife Service withdrew authorization for Gonzalez to import handbags via passengers on commercial airlines. Legal import through official commercial channels required coordination with both Colombian and U.S. authorities and could take weeks. Fashion Week in New York occurs twice annually in February and September, plus Resort Week in June, and missing these critical industry events could mean losing orders worth millions. Rather than miss deadlines, Gonzalez chose to bypass the legal requirements by having couriers carry samples directly. She received explicit warnings from U.S. Fish and Wildlife Service in 2016 and 2017 that what she was doing violated U.S. law, but she continued the operation anyway.
This case raises significant selective prosecution concerns for several reasons. The luxury retailers who purchased and sold the smuggled bags (Bergdorf Goodman, Saks Fifth Avenue, Neiman Marcus, Harrods) faced zero consequences despite displaying and profiting from the smuggled merchandise. Other designers and major European luxury houses caught with similar CITES violations have historically received only administrative penalties and fines, not criminal prosecution. Nancy Gonzalez's attorney Sam Rabin argued that while most major purse designers rush samples to fashion shows sometimes without the proper paperwork, only she was chosen to be prosecuted by the Department of Justice. The prosecutor himself stated that the retailers have their own brands to protect, suggesting institutional protection that Gonzalez, as a Colombian immigrant entrepreneur, did not have.
The consequences for Nancy Gonzalez's employees were devastating. Her company C.I. Diseno Y Moda Internacional employed over 300 artisans in Cali, Colombia, 95% of whom were women and many were heads of households. According to character reference letters filed with the court, Nancy had provided above-market wages, pension plans, childcare, and helped employees send their children to college. When her company collapsed following her arrest, all these workers lost their jobs and livelihood. The U.S. company Gzuniga Ltd. pleaded guilty and received three years probation and was banned from commercial wildlife trade for three years. The entire fashion empire Nancy spent 25 years building was destroyed, and her defense noted she lost everything but the love of her family and loyal friends.
Santiago Barberi Gonzalez, Nancy's son and co-founder of the Nancy Gonzalez label, died by suicide in March 2017 at age 40. According to court documents, Santiago had struggled with depression, and his death occurred during the conspiracy period from 2016 to 2019. The defense argued that Santiago's death profoundly affected Nancy's state of mind and judgment, as she experienced constant pain and emptiness. The business was the last piece of her son she had left, and she held on tight to preserve his legacy. However, prosecutors noted that the smuggling operation began in February 2016, more than a year before Santiago's death, and Nancy had already received warnings by then. The court considered Santiago's death as context but did not accept it as an excuse for continued criminal conduct.
Prosecutor Thomas Watts-Fitzgerald made several forceful arguments at sentencing. He emphasized that Nancy had received explicit warnings from U.S. Fish and Wildlife Service in 2016 and 2017 but never took steps to comply with the law. He argued she turned her mission into producing felons by recruiting vulnerable people as couriers who now have federal smuggling convictions on their records. Most dramatically, he compared her to a cocaine kingpin, stating it's all driven by the money and if you want to deter the conduct, you want the cocaine kingpin, not the person in the field. The prosecution recommended 30-37 months imprisonment and characterized her operation as a deliberate, systematic criminal enterprise. Judge Scola agreed the conduct was particularly egregious because she continued violating the law after being explicitly warned.
CITES (Convention on International Trade in Endangered Species of Wild Fauna and Flora) is an international agreement signed by 183 nations, including the United States and Colombia, designed to ensure that international trade in wild animals and plants does not threaten their survival. The python and caiman species used in Nancy Gonzalez's bags were CITES Appendix II species, meaning they are not threatened with extinction but require trade controls for monitoring. Under U.S. law, importing products from these species requires a valid CITES export permit from the country of origin, a U.S. Fish and Wildlife Service Declaration Form, proper packaging and labeling, and CITES tags on each item. Even though Nancy's skins came from farm-raised animals and not wild-caught, the permit system still applied because it allows governments to monitor trade volumes. Violations carry penalties of up to 20 years imprisonment for smuggling.
Public reaction was deeply divided. One camp believed Nancy got what she deserved, with some noting they always wondered why her exotic leather bags were more reasonably priced than other designers and apparently her business model included smuggling to keep expenses low. The other camp saw selective prosecution, asking why this designer went to prison while retailers walked free. Fashion industry coverage was surprisingly muted. Celebrities who wore her bags including Victoria Beckham, Britney Spears, and Salma Hayek made zero public statements, and all retailers declined to comment. Notably, Nancy Gonzalez handbags continued selling on resale platforms like The RealReal and Fashionphile even after her conviction, with no ethical disclaimers. The fashion industry essentially closed ranks, with no one publicly defending or distancing themselves from her.
Several significant questions remain unanswered. Why were luxury retailers never charged despite purchasing and selling approximately 1,000 smuggled bags, and did they conduct due diligence on CITES documentation? What happened to the 120+ couriers who physically smuggled bags through customs, as most were never charged despite committing federal offenses? Do other designers routinely rush samples without proper paperwork as the defense claimed, and if so, why was only Nancy Gonzalez criminally prosecuted? Why didn't any celebrities speak out or face investigation for possessing smuggled wildlife products? These unanswered questions fuel the debate about whether this was justice fairly applied or an example made of a convenient target who lacked institutional protection.
Chronological sequence of key events
Nancy Teresa Gonzalez de Barberi was born in Cali, Colombia. Her father died when she was nine years old, leaving her mother to raise five children alone.
After divorcing her husband and being left with two small children, Nancy began designing handbags from a sewing machine in her home in Cali, Colombia.
Nancy Gonzalez debuted her first eight-piece collection at Bergdorf Goodman in New York City, launching her international luxury brand.
Nancy established Gzuniga Ltd. as her New York-based subsidiary company, opening a showroom at 5 East 57th Street in Manhattan to handle relationships with U.S. retailers.
The Metropolitan Museum of Art in New York included Nancy Gonzalez work in an exhibition, cementing her reputation as a legitimate luxury designer.
The U.S. Fish and Wildlife Service withdrew authorization for Nancy Gonzalez to import handbags via passengers on commercial airlines due to staffing limitations. Nancy began smuggling operations the same month.
First documented smuggling incident occurred when 8 caiman handbags were smuggled via JFK airport without proper CITES permits.
Couriers smuggled 32 designer handbags into the United States without required CITES documentation.
Co-defendant Diego Giraldo was stopped at Newark Liberty International Airport by a U.S. Fish and Wildlife Service Special Agent while carrying four caiman-skin handbags. He falsely claimed they were personal items to be gifted to a friend.
U.S. Fish and Wildlife Service issued warnings and seizure notices to Nancy Gonzalez regarding her illegal import practices.
Nancy Gonzalez received additional warnings from U.S. authorities about her continued violations of CITES regulations and U.S. law.
Santiago Barberi Gonzalez, son and co-founder of the Nancy Gonzalez label, died by suicide at age 40. He had struggled with depression. Nancy continued smuggling operations despite this tragedy.
The smuggling conspiracy ended after three years. Federal estimates indicate between 788 and 1,307 handbags were smuggled with retail value between 1.4 million and 2.6 million dollars.
A federal grand jury in the Southern District of Florida returned a sealed indictment charging Nancy Gonzalez with conspiracy and smuggling goods into the United States.
Colombian federal authorities arrested Nancy Gonzalez at her home in Cali in a coordinated operation with U.S. Fish and Wildlife Service. Co-defendants Giraldo and Aguilar were also arrested.
The federal case against Nancy Gonzalez was unsealed following her arrest in Colombia. She was taken to Buen Pastor women prison in Cali to await extradition.
After 14 months in Colombian detention at Buen Pastor maximum-security prison, Nancy Gonzalez was extradited to the United States and appeared before Judge Robert N. Scola Jr. in Miami.
Nancy Gonzalez was released on 250,000 dollar bond with GPS monitoring, confined to her daughter home in Miami pending trial.
Nancy Gonzalez pleaded guilty to one count of conspiracy (18 U.S.C. Section 371) and two counts of smuggling goods (18 U.S.C. Section 545) without negotiating a plea deal with prosecutors.
Defense attorneys filed sentencing memorandum arguing for time served, citing selective prosecution and her 14 months in harsh Colombian prison conditions.
Judge Robert N. Scola Jr. sentenced Nancy Gonzalez to 18 months imprisonment with credit for time served from July 7, 2022 to August 30, 2023. She received three years supervised release and was banned from wildlife trade for three years.
After serving approximately four additional months in U.S. federal custody, Nancy Gonzalez was deported to Colombia to serve her three years of supervised release under Colombian authority monitoring.
All information verified against official court records and primary documentation
Every fact cited in this investigation is sourced from official court documents, FBI records, or verified news archives. No speculation or unverified claims.
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